Old Ridge Route [the ghost highway]

The remaining sign designating the now “ghost highway” – found at the entrance on the Antelope Valley side. Look for the street sign on Rt 138 closest to the I-5 (west) side of the valley.

Travel Geek Alert: I was inspired to visit this highway after viewing Huell Howser‘s California’s Gold Road Trip show. It was the second time that I had randomly turned on the TV and this show popped up. I knew I just had to go and find this old and very historic route for the State of California. Do you not know about Huell Howser? Well, this fine gentleman created and starred in various public TV (KCET – Los Angeles) shows featuring the sites and people of California. The show that inspired me is archived at Chapman University here. There is an additional article at the KCET web site on their show “Lost LA” here.

Please note: This road was built in 1915 first with gravel and oil to keep it in place -more or less. The true width of the road was 20 feet. It was later paved over with concrete and probably a little bit wider. There were not and still are not any guard rails for the road. The route follows the mountain side slopes and often makes tight and blind curves. It’s difficult driving this route now so imagine driving this old road in a 1915 Model T Ford! Probably in the 1950s it was paved again with asphalt. There are places along the route where each layer of paving is revealed due to erosion. There are rock slides, deep erosion, and big pot holes all along the route. The US Forest Service was taking care of the road within the Angeles National Forest. It doesn’t look like there is much repair going on now as demonstrated in some of my pictures. I decided to follow the route as Huell Howser did from the Castaic side where it starts from the south side of the Tehachapi Mountain Range and driving toward the grapevine valley. The show I watched originally aired in 2003. My trusty map from AAA had very little detail of where the route started AND there has been a lot of development in the Castaic area. I figured it might take some ingenuity and outright guessing to find the old road. I was right! Look for street signs – sometimes they are hidden or just plane difficult to see. I did find the starting route and it winds through a new neighborhood and school. Getting past all of this new construction the old road appears with some fantastic valley views.

The first view of original road after the new housing and a school in Castaic.

Here is a more well maintained part of the ghost highway that parallels the I-5. The Road Trip video from 2003 starts at this point with Huell Howser inviting viewers to come along for the ride. This is the split on the 5 that takes southbound traffic to the right and northbound is on the left. When driving on this freeway one never really notices the side and frontage roads that appear from time to time.

The road up to this point was in decent shape – all things considered. This intersection marked the end of decent road to one that was winding and pockmarked. Templin Hwy is an exit from the freeway. This exit can be used for easier access to the old road but you will miss the transition sections and beautiful views. Templin Hwy more than likely was made for specific access to a water reservoir in the valley below for Los Angeles and dead ends at the building that pumps the water to the city.

I really liked winding around the mountain and found a lot of private property. The web site for the Old Ridge Route made me aware that there are road closures. I had hoped that the roads would be repaired due to the historical significance of the road. However, I found this dead end on the Castaic side . . . but was determined to find the north route and see how far I could go.

Back to the freeway (I-5) north to Antelope Valley Rt 138 heading east to the Old Ridge Route exit.

I was able to get to the top of the ridge on a road that was literally ripped apart, washed out with rock slides, potholed but still intact. I found ruins of old hotels and houses along the way. The wind was as rough as the road and it brought in a storm cloud with scattered snow and rain while the sun was shining. It became a true 4×4 and AWD vehicle road and the AWD Shuttlecraft was brilliant throughout.

This trip is unusual for the #IEDaytripper. It was an all day journey and outside of the greater Inland Empire but well worth the time, map and GPS energy to complete the trip. If you have a suggestion for a day trip let me know in the comment section.

Oak Glen – San Bernadino County

Oak Glen is located on the border of San Bernadino and Riverside counties. It is nestled in the San Bernadino Mountains next to San Gorgonio mountain. From Los Angeles on the 10 heading east take the Oak Glen Road exit and turn left (north) through Yucaipa and enjoy the gentle climb up the country road. From Palm Springs and points east, head west on the 10 and exit on Beaumont Avenue. Turn right (north) continuing through Beaumont on a gentle climb up a delightful country road to Oak Glen. Known for its loop road through the valley and its “U Pick” apple farms Oak Glen is a trip to savor slowly. The forests are full of California native trees. Some of them greet Autumn with wonderful colors. I went on a Tuesday not expecting any crowds and probably empty roads. My assumption was correct and I was able to meander through town. Most of the stores and restaurants were closed waiting for the weekend tourists to arrive again. I did find Mom’s Country orchards open and to my delight sampled and purchased some local homemade fruit and nut butter delicacies.

The Oak Glen Preserve is a wonderful park with a Children’s forest trail noting all wildlife and native trees in the area. I was delighted to see the variety of animal life and learned which native trees thrived here. Ringtails, Weasels, Squirrels, Coyotes, Grey Foxes, Badgers, Rabbits, Bobcats, Mule Deer, Skunks and Mountain Lions are all in the San Bernadino Mountains.

There is an easy-moderate trail past the parking lot. Like with other trails throughout the Inland Empire wildlife coexists with hikers. Be aware of mountain lions, rattle snakes and bears. The trail is steep at times but well maintained. The California native trees along the trail are: CA Sycamore, Cedars, Sequoias, CA Black Oak and some scrub oaks.

Driving through town there was evidence of mudslides due to the burn scars on the mountains. Recent isolated Summer storms washed down debris and the town is quick to clean up and restore roads temporarily closed by the muddy hubris. Some restaurants are closed from damage sustained in the recent floods. Oak Glen website.

Oak Glen is nestled in the San Bernadino Mountain range and in Winter can get some decent snow.

Noah Purifoy

Outdoor Desert Museum of Assemblage Sculpture

Joshua Tree, San Bernadino County

sign

The Noah Purifoy Outdoor Desert Museum of Assemblage Sculpture is located at:

63030 Blair Lane, Joshua Tree, California

Set your GPS for this address and follow the zigzag through the Mojave back roads of the town of Joshua Tree. This is an unusual trip well worth your time. See the bio for Mr. Purifoy an amazing artist and visionary listed at the end of this post.

WELCOME I have visited this museum a few times since moving to the desert. Each time I notice more intimate details in the displays. I admire his use of recycled materials to re-create, re-design, re-imagine what so many of us see as junk and transformed to works of art and self-expression. It’s amazing how it all stands up to the weather extremes of the high desert. If I didn’t practice minimalism I would probably try this for myself. But where would I put it?

Bowling ball alley

There are some roads surrounding the museum that are worth backroading…..Nothing too strenuous just some fun dirt roads with interesting plants, dunes and neighboring architecture.

http://www.noahpurifoy.com/bio-cv

International Travel: Republic of Slowjamastan

I read about this new Republic in The Desert Sun (local paper in Palm Springs) The Sultan himself, Randy “R Dub” Williams invited readers to the opening ceremony for the newest self-proclaimed independent republic. Attendees were then invited to become citizens of Slowjamastan … please raise your right hand and repeat after me…… How could I resist such an offer? Here’s how you can apply for citizenship online. Ample press reporters were in attendance – not only from The Desert Sun but John Bartell from ABC 10 in Sacramento brought international attention to Slowjamastan.

The Republic of Slowjamastan is located adjacent to the Salton Sea (in Imperial County) on Route 78. From I-10 follow Route 86 toward Salton Sea. Look for Route 78 (it’s easy to miss) and head westerly a few miles. It’s very close to the border of Imperial and San Diego Counties. If you reach the town of Ocotillo Wells turn around – but then how could you miss that big ole sign welcoming you to Slowjamastan?

Here are highlight pictures of the ceremony events.

The rather LARGE sign greeting visitors from route 78 on each side of the new 11 acre Republic of Slowjamastan.

Dissecting the Flag: (from the Slowjamastan official web site)
“The new flag’s main color is teal, combining the calming properties of blue with the renewal qualities of green. It is a revitalizing and rejuvenating color that also represents open communication and clarity of thought. For Tibetan monks, teal is symbolic of the infinity of the sea and sky, while it is the color of truth and faith for Egyptians. For Slowjamastanians, it is simply the color that the Sultan looks best in. It really brings out his piercing eyes.”

“On the bottom of the flag are two waves that represent the endless sand dunes of Slowjamastan. In the middle, sits The Republic’s official national animal, the racoon. He is holding an axe, as a warning to our enemies that he will cut you. F**k around and find out.”

“The nation’s motto, “Freedom, Honor, Respect” is written in Latin under the racoon.”

“The racoon is surrounded by a blazing sun because it’s f***ing hot in Slowjamastan.”

#iedaytripper

Mon Petit Mojave

There’s a plot of land off of Old Woman Springs Road on the outskirts of Yucca Valley – on the way to Lucerne Valley. Jeremy and Jacqueline created a drive-in music and entertainment stage during the Pandemic and called it Mon Petit Mojave (MPM). Jeremy is a multi-talented musician and stage producer from France who blends his talent with the guest entertainers. Jacqueline is a fashionista, marketeer and MPM fund developer via public arts programs. The two of them have built and continue to expand on a beautiful silver lining from the dark clouds that surrounded us during the pandemic shutdown. Safety protocols were in place: social distancing and donning of masks were required and attendees had the option of remaining in their cars or setting up a tailgate picnic in their own immediate area. The fantastic talent is mostly local however, global musician friends visit the couple on a regular basis. The stage is basic, has an excellent sound system and sits under a huge Joshua Tree. At night it’s lit with vibrant stage colors . . . . while the desert sunset and moon rise open the night sky to reveal the Milky Way. A real astronomical pleasure. It’s a BYOB and food event. So bring your camping chairs and tables. The MPM mascot is the very friendly Django who greets everyone with wagging tail and like so many dogs, looking for food. But please, no food for Django.

MPM has expanded (2022) to Palm Springs with Mon Petit Salon at the Palm Springs Cultural Center.

Watching the musicians and artists prepare for the show. Here’s a sneak peak of what the stage looks like.

This was not my first visit to MPM. I enjoyed three shows last year (2020) and was not disappointed in any of them. The folks who attend are an eclectic bunch from the high desert (Mojave) and the low desert (Colorado/Sonora) with occasional visitors from the LA area.

The show for this night was a Cabaret featuring some French Can-can dancers and my friend DJ Baz (Barry Martin) was providing the beats. So, let’s take a look and watch some highlights of the show . . . .

Shane and Leila delivered awesome wine from a new service at Joshua Tree Bottle Shop.

images left to right: DJ Baz spinning the beats; resident artist revealing his work of the night. All shows are on weekend nights and vary from week to week. Contributions are gladly accepted on site or via Venmo. Help support local artists.

#iedaytripper

Claremont Village

A big thanks to AAA Westways magazine (Westways May/June 2020) for the incentive to drive west to this beautiful university town in the Pomona Valley. The village is located on the I-10 next to Montclair. It is home to several universities, has a train depot for the Metro line to Los Angeles. I started my daytrip with a quick lunch at Walter’s Restaurant and Lounge. I was intrigued by the Afghan fries (cooked in a secret batter)….. and then a secret pesto sauce for dipping – yummy!

The village is very walk-able and the climate is delightful – especially now that the desert’s temperatures are climbing above 100 this was a welcomed respite. Across the street from Walter’s is Rhino Records with an incredible collection of vinyl records. I was amazed as I browsed through the genres of music I recognized so many albums of my youth. I regretfully remember that I gave up my albums when CDs became prominent. I still have my collection of 45s and will never give them up. [update: June 2021 I purchased a turntable with Bluetooth options to connect to an outside speaker. I am now enjoying those 45s and purchasing additional LP albums.]

“Keep close to Nature’s heart… and break clear away, once in awhile, and climb a mountain or spend a week in the woods. Wash your spirit clean.” John Muir

There’s an 86 acre plot nearby reserved as a botanical garden. California Botanic Garden is one of the largest gardens featuring only native California plants. There’s a nominal fee to help with the upkeep and well worth the cost. Walking the paved paths and intertwining trails there are native plants from all over the State of California. I’ve lived in northern CA and traveled extensively throughout the state and this garden made me feel like I was actually in the region where these plants are from.

The artwork throughout the garden was amazing, very modern and blended well with the garden.

I spent several hours following the trails through the woods and desert features. With rush hour looming I decided to wait it out at a nearby wine bar. We Olive specializes in olive oil and also has a great wine selection. They have seating inside, a balcony in back and sidewalk seating. I ordered a glass of dry rosé wine and matched it with some olives. The timing was perfect and I was able to get back home with minimal traffic issues on the 10.

#iedaytripper

Joshua Tree Night Market

I have been following Joshua Tree Night Market on Facebook for quite some time. I know they choose to host their market at night due to some heat extremes. I decided to go earlier in the year before it became to hot and less enjoyable. I will say that the high desert (Mojave) is a bit cooler than the low desert (Sonora/Colorado) where I live in Palm Springs. At times there can be a 10 degree difference and that REALLY makes a difference during the Summer. I was attracted to the market for the expected eclectic art, eccentric participants and exciting show. I was not disappointed. Let’s take a look at what I found . . . . .

Desert X 2021

About Desert X

Download the Desert X App

This is my second Desert X and the third in its series (started in 2017; it is a biennial event). The first time I experienced this art extravaganza was in 2019 just after I moved to Palm Springs. What I liked about it was the search for the art all across the Coachella Valley and even to the Salton Sea. And once it was found, whether you liked the art work or not, it was gratifying to find.

That holds true today.

This year there are less art offerings, easier to find, and closer in proximity than before. Each is unique and powerfully expressive. Photos are posted here and I have inserted links above to the Desert X site for artist bio and descriptions of the artwork. I have limited commentary at each photo and remain a big fan of this art project.

This excursion can be done in a day and requires some mapping skills with your GPS. The Desert X App has a map locating each site. Tap that location (X) and information about the artwork appears as well as directions. Bring water, remain hydrated because this year the heat has arrived early. Be sure to wear comfortable shoes made for walking and hiking. Some sites require walking across the desert sands and one has a serpentine driveway up a hill. Two sites say they require reservations or tickets. Depending on when you go – weekends will be most busy – you may not need a reservation. My trip was on a Friday and I drove to the sites expecting to be turned away but was able to see the exhibits with no problem.

I am posting a few pictures of the dozen exhibits. Please check the links to Desert X above for full details, more pictures and artist biographies. One of my favorite exhibits for DX21 is here. It was a challenge to climb the serpentine driveway up the hill facing a driving wind. It was worth the trek, the view was spectacular.

#iedaytripper

Route 66 & Lake Havasu – III

After a morning hike (see part 2) I knew it was time to return home. I had planned on taking more back roads and avoiding Interstate 10 for that quick and easy route. Instead I found that route 62 meets up at the Colorado River and Parker AZ. Route AZ 95 is an easy ride following the river that meets up with some beautiful mountain cliffs that hide a real gem of the area.

Parker Dam was built in the 1930’s and part of the New Deal that President Roosevelt created to break us out of the great depression. According to the National Park Service, “What you see is not what you get at Parker Dam, known as ‘the deepest dam in the world.’ Engineers, digging for bedrock on which to build, had to excavate so far beneath the bed of the Colorado River that 73 percent of Parker Dam’s 320-foot structural height is not visible. Its reservoir, Lake Havasu, is a different matter. Its deep blue water stretches for 45 miles behind the dam, creating an oasis in the Arizona desert.”

The architecture is beautiful and very typical of the New Deal/WPA era. Not only does the dam preserve water for Lake Havasu it also is a major water source for Southern California. A resort village is just south of the dam and a number of small village resorts continue south on both sides of the river. At first it appears that there is no way to cross the dam but there is a slender road on top to drive across to the California side. The road then becomes Parker Dam Road and I found this:

Although I did not see any of these wild burros I was captivated with how they got here and how they survive. According to a local paper these burros have become a bit of a nuisance. They loiter in the road and don’t move – probably expecting a snack from tourists like me driving through. Out of respect for nature I do not feed the animals so they do not become dependent on humans for survival. They seem to be doing well for themselves and are protected.

Following the Parker Dam Road south toward the town of Parker CA Route 62 begins/ends and there’s a smooth recently paved road through the Sonora/Colorado desert. This road eventually becomes 29 Palms Highway and leads back to Interstate 10 via Morongo Valley and for me back home to Palm Springs. Awesome trip!!

Route 66 & Lake Havasu – II

I-40 swallowed up Rt 66 and I found myself in AZ.

My intent for this drive was to make an overnight trip and check out Lake Havasu area. It is a Colorado River reservoir created by the Parker Dam that is further south. It is also home to the old London Bridge reconstructed in the heart of Lake Havasu City (LHC). The bridge is a wonderful addition to the tourist attractions in the downtown area. The center of all activity for LHC is water sports: motor boating, jet ski, pontoon, fishing. To be honest, I had no expectations – that’s what exploring is about – however, I was not too impressed with LHC. My overnight accommodations at Motel 6 were fine and typical for the chain. With hindsight I can see that this is a pop up town created for water sport weekenders who want to party. I found the place was not too friendly. I was wearing my medical mask due to the pandemic. It seemed as if I was the “odd man out” in wearing a mask. Where one restaurant I visited was compliant with social distancing, wearing a mask – another was the opposite and I felt uncomfortable. I didn’t find out until I returned home that the Governor had lifted the call to wear a mask – prematurely IMHO.

Upon leaving LHC I meandered on a side road and discovered more activities for the area. Lots of off road and car racing tracks. My initial research for this trip included a place to hike – at Sara’s Park and I found it along this route heading south out of LHC. It is fantastic with many trails crisscrossing for different level hikers. I thought I was heading to the lake but ended up at Sara’s Crack [stop…don’t go there ;^> ]. I saw mountain bikers, trail runners and hikers of all ages and abilities here. This discovery made all the difference in my opinion of the area. I will come back just for this trail.

Route 66 & Lake Havasu – I

Do you remember the 1960s TV show? Nelson Riddle’s theme to the TV show

Route 66 – so famous and familiar to our American car culture and yes, the song made famous initially by Nat King Cole but check out this version by Depeche Mode.

“Get your kicks on Route 66.”

Southern California is fortunate to have this highway meander through the area. Unfortunately the highway has been decommissioned by the federal government but some states have made it a historical landmark. In California it is now called National Trails Highway but the road is still marked as Route 66. In San Bernadino County close to the Amboy Crater and the town of Amboy this highway is closed. While driving to Las Vegas through the Mojave (shorter than traveling west via freeway & then back east) you see the detour sign that diverts all traffic north to I-40.

Curiosity called …. why is it closed? How far can I drive to see why?

Here is why Route 66 is closed: There are 6 bridges in disrepair or washed out completely along the route. Each of them have dirt road bypasses from regular (local?) traffic and CalTran repair trucks. Some of these bypasses are deep and rocky with recent ravine cuts from rain.

So glad the shuttlecraft has AWD and higher suspension so the Daytripper can take the gullies and back road with ease.

My intention was to take the long and scenic route to AZ. A direct route to Lake Havasu is only about 3 hours and could technically be a day trip. Use the map below to plot your course. California and the IE are on the left (west) of the lake and AZ is to the right (east).

A Kayaking Quest (Part 2)

San Bernardino National Forest https://www.fs.usda.gov/sbnf

Leaving Lake Perris I searched for back roads vs the freeway. I found Ramona Parkway leads east toward the San Jacinto and Santa Rosa mountain ranges. Take route 74 up the mountain and there’s an exciting switchback road that I had not used before. I often go to Idyllwild in the Summer to cool off from the desert heat. Route 74 is the best way to get there from Palm Springs and I usually take route 243 on the north end of Idyllwild just for a diversion and another beauty of a road. I followed route 74 west side and enjoyed one of the best views I have seen in this mountain range.

Heading toward Lake Hemet.

Lake Hemet is another reservoir and built in the 1930’s. I often stop in the day use area when traveling to Idyllwild and have lunch. There are picnic tables and plenty of shade trees to lounge under. I had not thought about kayaking in the lake. I called the National Forest service to inquire. I’ve seen motor boats and pontoons and one time I did see some fisherfolk in a tricked out kayak made for fishing. I called the San Bernardino National Forest ranger station and asked about kayaking in this lake. The ranger said kayaking is allowed but must be launched in the paid camping area. Not sure I like having to pay a camping fee to use my kayak. The next time I go up to cool off I will inquire at the Lake Hemet store where passes are sold as suggested by the ranger. If you have a National Park Pass it can be used as a day parking pass in the picnic area.

#iedaytripper

A Kayaking Quest (part 1)

Desert life has so much to offer. I am enjoying the discovery of life and nature where most people don’t think there is. That’s the beauty of the desert. Lately I’ve been craving water ….. a place to set down a kayak and explore from a lake or river perspective. Today I jumped in the car and began my search. This will probably be an ongoing quest as the water sites in the IE are fairly distant. So, this makes the Daytripper happy – seek and find and report.

I asked an IE friend of mine who I know has a boat if he knew of places to kayak. He tends to take longer trips and hauls his boat to larger lakes along the Colorado River. He suggested I try Lake Perris.

Lake Perris is part of the California Department of Parks and Recreation https://www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=651

There is a $10 day use fee to enter the park (annual passes are available – see the link above for more info). With 3 entrances the park rangers are available to answer any questions and provide a map where recreational activities are allowed. This is a reservoir and the dam is accessible as a walkway and bikeway. There is plenty of water recreation. Motorboats, jet skis, and fishing are ample while camping is still limited. There’s only one area available for kayaking and it’s not what I am looking for. So after a walk along the dam I moved on to my next destination (see part 2).

#iedaytripper

Salton Sea

A number of documentaries have been made as of late due to the severity of the pollution problem and what the State of California will do to mitigate the problem. Will it divert water from the Colorado – again? Will it build a canal from the Gulf of California in Mexico?

A trip to the Salton Sea is worthwhile. Do know that there is an unattractive smell especially when the wind picks up. Be sure to wear some good walking shoes if you trek around – especially on the beaches. Here are photos from my recent trip to Bombay Beach and the geothermal pots.

Heading south on Hwy 111 the topography changes. There are swampy areas and surrounded by mountains on both sides of the Sea. I heard about the geothermal pots on the south side where geothermal plants are distributing electricity from extracting the hot water from underground. Here are some facts about geothermal. If you go be sure to bring some extra shoes – it’s muddy and sticky but super cool. The latest news is there is lithium in the water pumped from underground. This lithium can be used to create the batteries needed for electricity storage and electric cars. Will this become the lithium valley and save the future of the Salton Sea?

My suggested route to get to Salton Sea is from I-10…. This is the Cottonwood Springs Road exit – turn right on to Box Canyon road. Head south on Box Canyon and enjoy the winding road through the water carved canyon of the Mecca Hills Wilderness. An amazing ride and the topic of a future story.

#iedaytripper

Amboy Crater National Natural Landmark

I am fascinated with volcanoes. The fiery blasts of molten rock flowing down a mountain side, through a jungle and in to the sea still creates land mass in Hawai’i. A trip to the big island in 2005 included a tour of the Volcano National Park. That trip clinched my interest in this geologic phenomena and along with living on the San Andreas fault line here in California my fascination and curiosity about volcanoes never ceases. When I heard about the Mojave Desert Land Trust hike to Amboy Crater which included a night sky show….. I had to be there. Thanks to Twentynine Palms Astronomy Club for a great show. The attending amateur astronomers were well versed in the night sky. There were 2 telescopes available and I got to see the very blue planet Uranus.

There is a well paved parking lot with ample parking and information signs. The hike out to the crater is about a mile and the trail is composed of basalt/pumice and makes a loud crunching sound when walking on it. Be sure to wear some good hiking shoes. See the video below.

The hike out to the cone is approximately one mile. The trail is sandy but also contains a lot of basalt (dried volcanic lava) which can be difficult to walk on. When climbing up to the cone be sure you can hike up with loose basalt/pumice and a steep incline. Once inside the cone the trails vary in difficulty. There is one to the immediate left inside the cone that is easiest to climb to the top.
In this video I tried to provide a narrative but the wind was too strong and loud.

#iedaytripper